This pattern was on my lust list for quite some time before I finally bit the bullet just before Christmas. I just love how the style marries Mondrian colouring with tailored lines. Of course, I am a sucker for this type of polished styling as well – it’s just so easy to look like you’ve made more of an effort than is in fact reality when wearing this type of thing.
When I ordered the beige knit for my Lola dress from Minerva, I also ordered a selection of knits to make up a toile.
The pattern called for the entire dress to be underlined which I have never come across with a knit dress before. I just used plain, bemberg non-static lining. Might at first seem unnecessary for a toile, but I wanted to make sure it fitted without any stretch, and assumed the lining would help in that department.
With three different colours, cutting this out was a bit of a task. Having not sewn this pattern before, I cut the material out with an extra 1.5 cm at the side seams of each piece. In the end, I took 3 cm seams at the front/side front princess seams and 2 cm seams at centre back and back/side back princess seams, so I was glad of the extra width. That did mean that I couldn’t cut out the full length of the pieces though; which meant losing the 7.5 cm ear-marked for the hem.
Everything came together so nicely. Like all vintage patterns, the instructions are pretty sparse and assume a certain level of prior knowledge, but with a dress like this, there was no bother. My machine refused to topstitch the material nicely (tension was all over the place) so I’ve lost that nice detail, which is a bit of a shame, but not really a problem given this was just a test for fit/style.
|Putting in the earrings|
|Doing up the brass zips on the sleeves|
|Playing with the excess ease... grrr, still some tweaking to do on the fit then.|
There were a few fitting issues - too much excess in the bodice (feels a bit like I've got fabric bingo wings and waist flaps - nice image Rachel!). Also the neckline sits up too high on my neck (despite it not being too tight, weird) leaving me with fabric forming over-developed trapezius muscles above my collarbone. Not what i'm going for really!
I think this would be really nice in a wool, and might very well keep pondering that for a while!
One thing I'll need to keep in mind is that the invisible zip needs to go through all three colours. I used a white one here and it wasn't easy to insert and nor was it 100% successful!